Opinion piece by AgResearch science team leader Stewart Collie: It may be hard to imagine now, but there was a time when the New Zealand economy boomed off the back of wool exports.

Triggered by the Korean War in the 1950s, overseas demand for the product soared and New Zealand – with its abundance of sheep farms – enjoyed one of its greatest periods of economic growth.

Fast-forward to today and the picture for wool is very different. Enticed by cheaper alternatives such as synthetic carpets and polyester clothing, consumers globally have drifted in mass away from wool products despite their proven advantages.

New Zealand’s sheep farmers have suffered the consequences of this. What once was a highly profitable venture collapsed to a point in recent years where sometimes the revenue from the strong wool (the coarser fibre, distinct from fine wool like Merino) did not even cover the costs of shearing the sheep.

Sheep numbers in NZ have plunged from a peak of about 70 million in 1982, to about 23 million last year. Some sheep farmers have even looked to shift to “self-shedding” sheep breeds to reduce costs.

More recently, wool prices have picked up, but the reality is that any road back to the privileged position wool once held is likely to be a long and difficult one. There are undoubtedly positive signs emerging, principally around the choice for global consumers between natural, sustainable fibres such as wool and products manufactured from crude oil and petrochemicals.

Closer to home, there are also reasons for optimism.

New Zealand’s wool industry got a welcome boost earlier this month when the Government announced(external link) that government agencies will be directed to use woollen products in the construction and refurbishment of government buildings “where practical and appropriate”.

The new procurement requirements will apply to the construction of government owned buildings that cost $9 million and more, and to refurbishments of $100,000 and more. The requirement will apply to about 130 agencies, and products may come in the form of carpet, upholstery, insulation, and acoustic panels.

AgResearch science team leader for Bioproduct and Fibre Technology, Stewart Collie

Research has already demonstrated wool’s natural advantages such as moisture regulation, breathability, and resistance to fire, odours and staining.

Wool can also make for healthier environments, which many more workers in government buildings stand to benefit from due to the new policy. Indoor air quality is improved by wool’s natural ability to absorb harmful gases found indoors such as formaldehyde and nitrous and sulphur dioxides.

For some, the first thought of wool is still the scratchy old thick woollen jersey from decades ago. In reality, the science now shows potential benefits for skin health, even helping to alleviate eczema symptoms, when fine wool is worn next to the skin.   

At a time of growing concern about synthetic microfibres in our oceans contaminating the marine life, studies by AgResearch have also demonstrated clear benefits of wool over synthetic products which leach countless microfibres in the washing process. By contrast, wool biodegrades in the marine environment into harmless components.

Of course, evidence of these benefits of wool over synthetics is not enough. It must be part of a compelling story that resonates with consumers and helps to overcome barriers such as price when natural fibres such as wool and synthetic products are compared.

And as strong as the case for wool might be, there is always the risk of it being derailed by negative stories around animal welfare or environmental concern.

Earlier this year, video emerged of alleged mistreatment of sheep connected to shearing practices in New Zealand. Any mistreatment of animals is wrong, and it was pleasing to see farmers and industry groups quick to condemn such behaviour and make clear this is not typical of shearing practices in New Zealand.

Consumers unfamiliar with sheep farming may question why sheep must be shorn at all. This is where education about the risks of animals overheating in warmer months, or being exposed to parasites, is also important.

Concerns about welfare can sow doubt for consumers about the ethics of a product they are buying. Similarly, it can be difficult for consumers to navigate competing claims about carbon footprints.

With wool, it is important to take a holistic view that includes not only how it is produced, but also the longer lifespan of woollen products and what is required during their use. For example, our recent research funded by Australian Wool Innovation finds that wool garments allow for longer wear between washes due to their natural odour resistance, reducing energy usage, compared to cotton and polyester garments.

We can also point to good progress in farming more efficiently and important developments by the industry and scientists such as breeding sheep that produce less greenhouse gas.

Rather than hoping for a return to the good old days for wool, NZ needs to build on its strengths and opportunities in the context of the world we live in today. Instead of a woollen jersey or carpet, the wool people buy could just as easily be in the form of running shoes, air filters, sticking plasters, sanitary products, wool-derived bioplastics, or any number of other new uses. 

If NZ can tell the right story and back it up with metrics that matter to consumers, of this natural, sustainable fibre with its numerous benefits – in a world increasingly concerned about health and the environment – then there is every reason to think that wool can once again be a product of choice for millions of consumers.

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